Along the road down to the Thaa Laang pier and the waterfront just south of it is the oldest settled area of the island, where tiny lanes will lead you past Chinese shrines, hideaway hotels, fishermen's modest houses and boats that seem to have made their way into impossible places. If you can't turn a motorcycle around in a space the size of your hat, walk. The lanes are much too narrow for samlors, and in places to steep for all but the most muscular bicyclists.